|
My Ext(p)ensive
qualifications
by Mark Kelly
 Thirty one consecutive seasons of Thredbo winters must qualify me for
something, (please don’t ask my mother what that is). Throw in another
couple of hundred days, across more than 30 ski resorts around the world
and you realise this is one big habit, yes like food and wine.
I’ve not skied in Tasmania but I did
 ski with a couple who learnt
there at
Ben Lomond. That was 20 years ago at Verbier in Switzerland
(left).
They must
have known something the world did not a that stage, as they were
curiously noticeable for two things; the length of their skis (around
170cms) and the fact they skied so well. They were punching out perfect short
radius turn after short turn, on the magnificent steep run to the valley
on Mt Fort. We charged down on our 210cm+ .
 A couple of years ago the opportunity came to stay with the Murdoch
Magazines team at the lodge in Ben Lomond (that's them at
left, click for a bigger image). The dramatic cliff faces of
the drive up and down and the hospitality of the locals as we partied
away at the “talent night” were the most memorable experiences. As for
the skiing and eating, well, it’s a long way to go for that.
NSW - Thredbo
At Thredbo which is the only resort in NSW with the European village feel, stay
at one of the houses on the Crackenback Ridge (take your ear plugs for
when the snow guns are running) or
The River Inn.
There’s
Christmas in July at Thredbo and look for the Winemaker’s Dinners,
Wednesday evenings throughout August.
The pick of the restaurant experiences remain Sante,
and the multi-award winning
Credo (you can check out both in the NSW and ACT Restaurant & Catering
Association Awards, Mietta’s listing from the last two SMH Good Food Guides; and
the Credo website describes
their food as “'Modern Australian',
"with an emphasis on fresh local produce. It (the menu) changes constantly,
depending on the market products. We are well known for our 'Double
Roasted Duck; 'De-boned and stuffed Snowy River Trout”. Their menu
online is a bit heavy on the seafood for my liking all be it 'fresh from
S/A' (they have an excellent cellar of aged wines).
Where to stay.
Crackenback
Cottage
is a great alternative place to stay on the Alpine Way, quoting chef
Greg Harmer, from a Sydney Morning Herald article last season; their “Winter
food is rich and has strong flavours ... to go with red wine to warm you
up... Root vegetables, celeriac, fennel, rhubarb, stewed fruits such as
quinces, apples and pears, and game meats are excellent for winter meals
as they provide flavours and textures different from the light
ingredients of summer... Schnapps, red wine and chocolate are also favourites for those
returning from the slopes.”
Yep I'll have all of that please, (but watch the drive
back if you are staying in Thredbo!)
You should also go to Segreto in the Thredbo Alpine Hotel, which was serving seriously
good Italian food last season.
The Skiing.
When the snow’s falling go for first tracks, skip breakfast at the lodge
and grab excellent coffee and other brekkie specials at great attitude,
Avalanche Cafe on the way up the hill. Get there at 8.10am and you’ll be
first on the lift at 8.30am. The first run is off The Bluff, then go to
the Golf Course (if it’s windy stay in the trees under the Snow Gums
chair).
Always stop at the top chair of Crackenback at least once on your trip
for the “top of the world” views, service and smart mountain food.
If you want serenity and sweat, wait for the perfect day (check the
whole day’s forecast!) and go cross-country off the top of the Crackenback Chair.
The
best on-mountain food experience remains Karella Hutte. Put young kids
in
Thredboland for the day.
 If
you don’t ski (what are you doing here again?) go to the Thredbo AIS
Centre for swimming, the gym, massage (better still get Tone to come to
you), and then curl up with a book at the lobby bar fire place at the
Thredbo Alpine Hotel (left).
Make sure you have one (one only OK?) last schnapps at the Tyrolean
style Black Bear Inn, a Thredbo institution sold to developers by the Sommer
family after 34 years. It comes complete with German music and beer.
Have a look at the schnapps list on their
website, skip the meals.
Victoria - Mt Hotham
For the jet set convenience, fly to Hotham airport. For serious
in-bounds steeps, powder and ski in - ski out convenience, it’s hard to
go past Mt Hotham and Zirky’s, owned by the Zirkner family
for more than 40 years. They also have the best resort restaurant I’ve
eaten at in Australia and a good wine list run by the delightful Annalise
and her sister who will cater to every whim and thrash you on the mountain.
Have the goulash on the balcony from the bistro with a beer on a sunny
day.
 You can stay at the new super deluxe Absollut or Schnapps (there it is
again) and Sambuca Apartments but the greatest indulgence is Blowhard,
one of the Alpine Heights Apartments (ask for it by name),
get a group
of 8-10 people, probably a season ahead, and get Kate Elder at
Great
Alpine Foods to cater, (their fresh stuffed
mountain trout is my favourite. That's a Kate desert at left.) They can do dinner parties, provide
chefs, housekeepers, shopping and babysitters. Kate is extremely
flexible, it’s incredible value with fresh diverse menus and overcomes
the problem of lack of quality produce in the village, unless you ship
your food and wine ahead. (Fanatical you say?)
They have finally updated the Central Reservations area at Hotham,
which, whilst providing a one-stop-shop experience, was noticeable for
its poor overall quality (food and service in the restaurant downstairs
was an exception). They are promising great things for
The
White Room.
So that’s it. Snow and food. Extensive and expensive.
Mark Kelly
More Ski food + recipe
in
Ski lunch - Polenta Grassa
If you've got a snow food story, place or tip we'd love to hear from
you.
send us an email to
snowfood@regionalfood.com.au |
