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Jan, you spoke about two approaches to using truffles, can you
explain that further?
"There are two
styles of cooking you use for truffles. One style really
only builds a foundation to accommodate truffles, where the
truffle is the stellar item on the plate.
"Plain risotto,
white polenta or some of the dishes that I did for this
event, like the aqua cotta (see recipe later), or the layered celeriac. The
other style is, for example a game bird dish, like a pigeon
with a truffled sauce where there is still a lot of game
flavour on your plate.
"They’re dishes of a different nature,
it also shows the many talents of the truffle. Because it
goes both ways, and when you add to that the whole spectrum
of desserts and sweets which you may flavour with fresh
truffle it is very interesting. The general rule is that if
you use truffles, you do it quite generously. If a
restaurant or a home cook has truffle on the menu, there is
no holding back, otherwise don’t mention them or don’t have
them."
We're used to the intensity of truffle oil.
"Truffle oil has done a lot of damage, because it was
over utilised, too many dishes had too high a quantity.
Fortunately or unfortunately you don’t get truffle flavour,
it reminds you of truffles but the truffle flavour is very
subtle.
Right.
fresh trout sashimi, and slices of truffle. |
"I think there will be a transition."
"When you look at
very good pinot noirs, people who have been drinking big
bold shiraz don’t want to settle for something less tasty.
Really it is just as tasty, a good pinot is as good as any
other wine but taste perception and perhaps focus and
training and habit deprives us of exploring the subtleties in
the wine.
The same happens in dishes, certainly it
happens with truffles."
It's exciting to think that the experience of eating
truffles
fresh, will not be restricted to having to visit France or Italy.
It's another seasonal food event to look forward to. Can
you share a couple of the recipes now please?
On the following pages are three truffle recipes.
Step through them or click on the links.
Neil Abrahams version of a whole egg ravioli
with truffles, Jan's aqua cotto which was a big hit
(on the day I missed), and my favourite, poached egg with truffled cream.
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