Regional Food (Archive)

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Pomegranates. Punica granatum.

Carthage was called Punis in Roman times so the fruit became mala punica the 'Carthaginian apple'. The species name is granatum, (and gave us also the Spanish  Granada) and the name pomegranate, refers to its many 'grains' or seeds. If you've ever eaten a handful of the seeds you'll appreciate the dilemma of whether, after eating the soft, scented pulp, you should swallow the seeds or spit them out. Davidson points out that this is a problem going back to classical legend.

"Persephone, daughter of Demeter the goddess of fruit and fertility, was carried off to the underworld by its god Hades (Pluto). Demeter, in her efforts to force her daughter's release, prevented earthly plants from bearing fruit (thus creating winter, a formerly unknown phenomenon).

Persephone for her part, vowed not to eat while in Pluto's kingdom, but eventually succumbed and ate a pomegranate.

 


She spat out all the seeds but for six, which she swallowed. When Pluto finally gave in to Demeter, he was allowed to keep Persephone for six months of every year because of those seeds, and this is supposed to be the alternation between winter and summer."
 
Alan Davidson, Oxford Companion to Food

Spanish sailors took the fruit on voyages because its tough skin helped it travel well and it became established in southern USA and in California in the 18th Century. It travelled to Asia and is mentioned in India and China around the first century AD. Although its seeds are  spread by birds it doesn't grow true by seed, and cuttings are the most reliable way to propagate it.

If you get a good large pomegranate it makes collecting the seeds easier and worthwhile (slit the skin, and scoop the fleshy seeds out with a spoon leaving the white membrane between, which is bitter). If you just want the juice, you can microwave them briefly, roll the fruit hard to crush it and the juice will flow out easily. Commercial concentrated pomegranate juice is called grenadine.

They're a sensuous and extravagant fruit and the source of lots of other legends but if you are eating the fruit uncooked, remember Persephone and spit.       

 
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