Home > Issue 2 Contents > The Guide

Braidwood | Bungendore | Collector | Gundaroo | Murrumbateman | Hall

Pack your woolly slippers, we're going to grazing country. And although the local tourism people frown on the word 'cold' (the official substitute is 'crisp') there's no denying the early mornings can be chilly. But then, you can't have cool-climate wines without a cool climate, now can you?

Click on the map or choose from the menu above.

Travel the food trail

Indulge us for a moment. Imagine that Canberra doesn't exist and let us suggest a regional food and wine experience that ignores the capital's many fine restaurants. Pretend that the five-star luxury of the Hyatt Hotel Canberra is on another planet and look for accommodation that comes with a quirkier, more personal touch.

Our trail includes bits of the major highways, but also takes you along some of the back roads that are more scenic and less hectic. The best time to do it is on weekends, because many of the wineries and restaurants you'll encounter along this route aren't open early in the week. If you're planning to visit mid-week you might find fine-dining choices a bit thin on the ground. In that case, a mercy dash into the capital to somewhere like Waters Edge, Axis or The Ginger Room is always a possibility – or you can generally find tasty food at the local pub.

Unless you're heading up from the New South Wales South Coast, you'll approach via one of the area's substantial towns, Goulburn, Yass or Queanbeyan. Each of these has its own attractions, but we're not talking about towns here. We're concentrating on villages. Smaller, friendlier, easier to come to grips with.

Start your tour in Braidwood, work your way up through Bungendore and the Lake George wineries to Collector, head off through grazing country to Gundaroo then on to the Murrumbateman and Hall wine districts. Or do it the other way round. Other villages that could be worth side trips include Captain's Flat, Gunning and Tarago. Along the way you'll find a number of excellent restaurants including two, Lynwood Café at Collector and Grazing at Gundaroo, with a Good Food Guide hat. Our village-by-village guide has plenty of suggestions on where to eat, where to stay and where to buy local produce.

Of course, you can't spend all day eating and drinking. Well, not every day. There's a lot more to do and see in the area. Most of the villages have a variety of antique shops, gift shops and galleries, many exhibiting local crafts. The towns themselves have much longer histories than Canberra and there are many fine old buildings to explore.

Scenery? The route from Bungendore to Collector takes you past the mysterious Lake George. Local legends say that it fills and empties at opposite times to a lake in Peru. Or, some say, New Zealand or Tasmania. More likely, the fluctuations in level are simply because it's a shallow lake, so cycles of drought and rainfall have a dramatic effect. Elsewhere, National Parks near Braidwood have good walks and picnic spots and the Brindabella Ranges offer a scenic backdrop to your wine-tasting in the Hall area.

If your getaways don't mean a thing if they ain't got that swing, you'll find nine-hole golf courses in Braidwood and Gunning (and a number of very impressive ones in Canberra, but we won't go there, will we?). There's excellent stream fishing in the Braidwood area, too, and winter rains mean the streams are actually flowing again.

Vital statistics

The capital region is about 300km from Sydney and 700km from Melbourne and is part of the southern tablelands of New South Wales. It's high – more than 500m above sea level – and because it's inland the weather tends more to extremes than on the coast. Winter days typically start with a frost, then become gloriously sunny with temperatures around 12-14°C. Spring is often windy and showery, summers are dry and hot (up to 40°C) and autumn, perhaps the best season of all, is usually calm and clear. The area has more hours of sunshine each year than Melbourne, Sydney or even the Gold Coast.

Getting there

Both Qantas and Virgin Blue fly to Canberra via Melbourne, Brisbane and Adelaide. Only Qantas flies via Sydney. There is a Countrylink rail service from Sydney (times vary depending on the day of the week) and coaches from Sydney and Melbourne. If you're driving, it's an easy three hours from Sydney with divided road all the way. It's about eight hours from Melbourne, including stops.

Getting around

To explore these villages, you'll need a car. If you're not bringing your own, the usual car rental firms have offices in Canberra city and at the airport. If you're planning on extensive wine-sampling, there are winery tours available, so you can partake freely without worrying about the driving.

Winery Tours
 

Don't forget to pack…

…an Esky in the boot. Handy for loading up with produce during the day and keeping the wine cold for picnics.

Forewarned is forearmed…

If you're driving at night, slow down and look out for wildlife on the roads. Kangaroos are common, even close to the city, and you see the occasional wombat. If you come across injured wildlife, call Wildcare on 6299 1966.

Featured towns - Menu
Braidwood | Bungendore | Collector |
Gundaroo | Murrumbateman | Hall

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Braidwood

Although this isn't a one-street town, its remarkable gold-rush era main street is what sets it apart. There's a lot of political bickering about preservation in Braidwood but, whatever the outcome, it's unlikely that this strip of heritage buildings will be allowed to moulder away. The whole town is classified by the National Trust.

The district was settled in the late 1820s, the town site surveyed in 1839 and the town named after one of the first landholders, Dr Thomas Braidwood Wilson. In 1851, gold was discovered, changing the character of the town completely. As with other gold rush towns, Chinese miners had a significant influence on the culture of the day. Sydney's first successful Chinese businessman, Quong Tart, grew up in Braidwood and went on to overcome the prejudices of Federation-era ‘White Australia' society.

Where to stay

Top of the range is probably Mona Luxury Country Villa and Country Estate, a restored mansion that was originally built for Braidwood's first miller. Another upmarket choice is The Doncaster Inn, where they also run a school for butlers. So if you feel like being buttled, go when the school is running. The Snow Lion B&B is highly recommended or, if you fancy sleeping in a former gaol cell, try the Old Courthouse at Araluen, an old gold-rush town nearby.

Bedervale   Historic Homestead      02 4842 2421
Email BEDERVALE@bigpond.com

Braidwood Colonial Motel           Motel                          02 4842 2027

Braidwood Country B & B           Bed & Breakfast          02 4842 2577

Cedar Lodge Motel                     Motel                          02 4842 2244

Commercial Hotel                      Hotel                           02 4842 2529

Curraweena Lavender Farm       Bed & Breakfast           02 4842 2800

Doncaster Inn   Boutique hotel        02 4842 2356 Website

Mona      Luxury Country Villa         02 4842 1288  Website

Royal Mail Hotel     Hotel      02 4842 2488     Email rmhotel@ispdr.net.au

Snow Lion    Bed & Breakfast          02 4842 2023

The Old Courthouse, Araluen  Homestay   02 4846 4053
Email pamloader@msn.com

Torpy's   Guesthouse & Motel         02 4842 2551 
Email torpys@braidwood.net.au

Where to eat

There is a dearth of serious night-time restaurants in Braidwood. The Criterion serves modern Australian food, first described to us by a local as “high food – you know, everything stacked up”. The Deli does a damn fine luncheon assortment  and offers plenty of local produce to take home. Just up the hill a few doors, the Bakery has good pies and a bread. If their 'escargot' pastries ('snails' to the plebs) are available, buy one. Then buy another one.
 
A number of cafes do good coffee and cake (try Cafés Albion or Altenburg). The Royal Café looks like your traditional Aussie caff, but also does a good line in Thai food. They even have Thai breakfasts!
Braidwood has such a strong tourist appeal that cafes and shops open optimistically and close regularly.

Braidwood Bakery       Daily to 6pm                 02 4842 2541

Braidwood Countryside Diner Weekdays to 6pm, weekends to 7pm 02 4842 2257

Braidwod Deli Closed Tuesdays  02 4842 1201

Cafe Albion      Open daily except Thursday, dinner Fridays      02 4842 2831

Cafe Altenburg 10am to 5pm every day, dinner Friday & Saturday 02 4842 2077

Cafe Caboodle  Breakfast and lunch daily  02 4842 2346

Criterion Restaurant      Lunch daily, dinner Friday to Sunday

Eureka Woodfired Pizzeria       Daily 5pm to 9pm, Tuesday & Wednesday takeaway only        02 4842 2831

Pitstop Café     Open to 7pm weekdays, later on weekends                  02 4842 2809

Grapevine Café            7.30am to 7pm weekdays, longer hours weekends.       02 4842 2125

Pigge Outte & Runn      Lunch Friday to Monday, dinner Thursday, Friday, Saturday, Monday              02 4842 2395  .

Royal Café       Daily until 5pm, later on weekends        02 4842 2414 

Shopping

This is one of those towns where you want to wander and browse. Often you can combine eating and shopping: Jacksons on Wallace has a connecting door to the Café Albion and Café Altenburg has a gift shop at the front and a courtyard café at the back. If you need a nice set of 50s plastic canisters, don't miss the retro treasures at Sugden & Hamilton in Wallace Street.

Braidwood has a thing for quilts. If you do too, you'll find lots of supplies at the Braidwood Quilt Shop. We were fascinated by Len Mutton & Co, a country store that's been operating since 1910. Other intriguing stores offer old kero and oil lamps, stoneware pottery, fruit wines or old-fashioned lollies. A village market is held next to the Bakery, usually on the fourth Saturday of each month.

What to do

If you want to get out of town and get active, the rugged mountain ranges, wild rivers, forests and "off the beaten track" territory around Braidwood are an invitation to adventure. The Morton, Monga and Deua National Parks are within easy reach. If bushwalking is too tame, there's rock-climbing, abseiling, caving and canoeing. There's trout and fresh water fishing on the Shoalhaven and Mongarlowe Rivers and in various streams.

In season, visit nearby Araluen either for the blossom on thousands of fruit trees, or for their produce. Harrison & Sons Orchard, 'Araglen', offers peaches, nectarines and other stone fruits from mid-November to mid-February.

In town, the Braidwood Museum, run by the local Historical Society, is worth visiting. Located in a former hotel, it has the original kitchens and dairy and an interesting section on the Chinese influence in Braidwood. See the Braidwood Visitor Information Centre located in the National Theatre on Wallace Street for more on the historical buildings and sites to visit.. The theatre itself still runs movies and shows on occasion, the only nightlife on offer besides the pubs and the RSL.

'Araglen' Araluen          02 4846 4017
Braidwood Golf Course            02 4842 2108
Braidwood Visitor Information Centre 02 4842 1144
National Parks & Wildlife 02 4423 2170

 

Events

One of Braidwood's more unusual events is the Quilt Festival, held each November. Colourful quilts are displayed from every available balcony during the spectacular ‘Airing of the Quilts'. Also in November, Music at the Creek folk festival draws quite a crowd to Majors Creek, 10 minutes from Braidwood. Their website promises ‘more toilets this year', which we're sure will be a relief to all concerned. The Braidwood Cup in February is the big event on the local racing calendar and hard on its heels comes the Braidwood Show..

Music at the Creek       11-13 November 2005 Website
Quilt Festival                25-27 November 2005 (Airing of the Quilts, 25 November)  4843 2355  Website
Braidwood Cup            Early February
Braidwood Show         March  
Heritage Celebrations   April

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Bungendore

Founded in 1837, Bungendore has associations with both saints and sinners. The ‘gentleman bushranger' William Westwood, aka Jacky Jacky, frequented the area and was once held in custody in a room next to the post office. He escaped. A more welcome visitor was Sister Mary McKillop, whose order founded a convent here in 1891. Mary McKillop visited several times.

Bungendore has two main streets. Kings Highway runs through the middle of town and is the ‘tourist' street. The real main street is one block further north, where you'll find the pubs, the café where the locals hang out, the supermarket and the Bungendore Butcher. The town doesn't have the same picturesque qualities as Braidwood. There are many lovely old buildings, including the railway station and the police station, but they're interspersed with some architectural horrors.

For many years, Bungendore was the rail head, making it a centre of local commerce. One of our favourite stories concerns the visiting Duke of Gloucester who, in 1934, was trying to sleep in the royal rail car near the Bungendore goods shed. He was disturbed by the constant croaking of the resident frogs (maybe they were Irish republican frogs – Bungendore has a strong Irish heritage). Local boys were hired to throw stones at the frogs to allow the Duke his rest.

Today, there are media empires being built in Bungendore (not just us sillies), and the local papers are the place to look for event information and opening times, church services etc. The Bungendore Bulletin has been around for yonks, but the weekly 'upstart', the The Bungendore Mirror has the news first. Read it in PDF form on the Mirror website.

Where to stay

You may still find the Elmslea B&B listed on some web sites, but the new owners haven't yet decided on it's future. Contrary to what we said in our print issue, The Old Stone House is still operating as a B&B and it's a delightful first choice. Call well ahead however. Then there's hotel or motel-style accommodation. At the recently renovated Royal Hotel, you can eat downstairs at the above-average Harvest restaurant then sit on the upstairs verandah and watch the CWA ladies arrive for their meetings next door. The Carrington Inn, once a coaching stop, is a Bungendore institution, popular with wedding and conference groups.

The Old Stone House  B&B                          02 6238 1888   

Bungendore Harp Hotel/Motel Hotel              02 6238 1260

Bungendore Motel    Budget motel               02 6238 1037

Royal Hotel Bungendore     Historic hotel      02 6238 1219 Website

The Old Carrington Inn    Motel & Inn          02 6238 1044  Website
 

Where to eat

Not actually in Bungendore, but close by, Lambert's Vineyard Cafe is the standout in the area. Seasonal menus and a deft touch by chef Michael Stride produce some memorable moments. The setting, high on the escarpment with views over the vineyard and hills, is lovely and the open fire warms up the attractive, modern room. Elsewhere - you can eat surrounded by antiques at the Old Carrington Inn, Beetle Nutt closed as we went to press and reopened as Hunnyz.  Bardy's Cafe was set to open 'any minute now' and of course as soon as we closed the issue, it did. There's been a number of chefs working at making Harvest at the Royal Hotel into a food experience that matches the dining space. It has some high spots (and very reasonable prices). The best coffee choice in town is between Woodworks Café and Bardy's.

Arte Café is now called 2621 Oyster and Steak Bar      Wednesday to Sunday 9 to 5, Thursday to Saturday dinner 02 6238 1175

Hunnyz (formerly Beetle Nutt )     Lunches and evening  02 6238 0999

Gib Street Cafe   Open daily, coffee, all-day breakfast, lunch, snacks, Country Style Chicken. It's the home once a month to a night of bush poetry, music and conviviality 0262381088

Harvest, Royal Hotel    Open daily for lunch and dinner 02 6238 1219

Heritage on the Square  Pizza, family dining, open 9am until late, 7 days. 02 6238 1404

Lamberts Vineyard Cafe      Friday to Sunday lunch, Thursday to Saturday dinner. 02 6238 3866

Mandarin Chinese Restaurant at Harp Inn  Saturday & Sunday lunch, Tuesday to Sunday dinner 02 6238 0992

Old Carrington Inn Lunch weekends & holidays, dinner every night 02 6238 1044

Woodworks Café         Daily 9 to 5, dinner Friday  02 6238 1688

Bardy's Cafe (in the Old Fireshed) Wed to Sunday 6238 0700

Shopping

Again, there are lots of antique shops, gift shops and galleries. The must-see in Bungendore is the Woodworks Gallery. Don't expect cheap knick-knacks; from simple bowls and platters to substantial furniture, these are beautiful pieces and priced accordingly.

The exterior of Bloomfield Galleries and Odana Editions is painted in colours that would make a tyre retailer blush, but inside they have lovely Norman Lindsay, Frank Hinder and Alasdair McGregor etchings, prints and more. X Gallery, next door to the Royal Hotel, is a tiny treasure-house of designer Xanthe's jewellery, glass and quirky homewares. Bungendore Books is a vast second-hand book store that's great for browsing and the manager is something of a walking history book himself, full of tales from Bungendore's past. Bungendore markets happen on the third Sunday of every month in the Memorial Hall.

If you want to stock up for a picnic, try Biscotti's for good Italian bread (they sell Dom's) and a variety of deli items including Snowy Mountains smoked trout. Pasquali's, next door, has fresh fruit and veg and stocks local produce in season.

What to do

Bungendore is your jumping-off point for the wineries of Lake George. Heading out of town you climb up through Smith's Gap (if you're not the driver, look back over your shoulder for a lovely view of the valley). Lark Hill, Afflecks, Milimani and Lamberts are around ten minutes from town.

On your way you'll pass Nuts About Bungendore, with farm-fresh hazelnuts and chestnuts available in season. You can pick your own chestnuts, Saturdays and Sundays from mid-March to early May.

A drive to the south east from Bungendore brings you to Captain's Flat. Located in a pretty valley, Captain's Flat is a mining town. Gold was discovered there in the 1880s and you can still pan for gold in the Molonglo River. Copper, lead and zinc were subsequently mined here, the last mine closing in 1962. The imposing pub dates from the 1930s and boasts the longest bar in the Southern Hemisphere. It's an interesting little town with a museum, a few crafty shops, a good café and, of course, the pub.

Events

The three highlights of the Bungendore social calendar are the rodeo in October, the Bungendore Show on the last weekend in January and the Country Muster music festival (a sort of mini-Tamworth) on the first weekend in February. The Country Muster incorporates the Bush Poet's Breakfast (a hoot and well worth getting up for) and a busking competition that makes doing your Saturday shopping a cacophonous experience. On a different plane altogether, the Weereewa – Festival of Lake George is an arts extravaganza that takes place every two to three years. The next one is scheduled for 2006.

Bungendore Rodeo       30 October 2005         02 6238 1408

Bungendore Show        29 January 2006          02 6238 1576

Bungendore Country Muster   3 – 5 February, 2006   02 6238 1373

Weereewa Festival       25 March -2 April 2006  02 6238 1130

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Collector

Collector's name sounds as though it should have a story behind it. What kind of collector could it be named after? Butterfly? Tax? In fact, the name is an anglicised version of an aboriginal word ‘colegdar' which no-one seems to know what it refers to. The area was first settled by Europeans in 1829 and in 1837 a postal service began from Goulburn across the plains to Lake George and down to Yass. Collector developed as a staging post and once had five inns and several stores. These days, there's just one of each.

The ironstone building that is now the Bushranger Hotel dates from 1860 and was originally named Kimberley's. In 1865, Ben Hall and his gang held up the publican and their riotous behaviour attracted the attention of the town's constable, 38-year-old Samuel Nelson. When he went to investigate he was shot dead by one of Hall's gang, John Dunn, who had been left outside to keep watch.

See  www.pumpkinfestival.com.au for more.

Where to stay

The pub is really your only option. They've recently renovated their rooms and offer comfortable accommodation at reasonable rates.

Bushranger Hotel          02 4848 0071  Website

Where to eat

Just outside Collector you'll find grapefoodwine at the Madew Vineyard and in Collector itself you'll find the famous Lynwood Café. In appearance, they couldn't be more different. grapefoodwine is an airy modern room with a huge fireplace, couches for lounging and views over the vines to Lake George. Lynwood inhabits a heritage house, long and low, with bumpy walls, smallish windows and an intimate cosiness. Both are well worth a visit. At Madew, you can preface your dining with a wine-tasting. At Lynwood, few people leave without a jar or two of the scrumptious Lynwood preserves (try the Beer Chutney, a Regional Food favourite).

The Colegdar Restaurant at the Bushranger Hotel boasts fine dining on Saturday nights only and they keep country hours: 6 to 9pm. The hotel's bistro is open most days, but if you want to eat in Collector on a Monday or Tuesday – tough!

Lynwood Café  Friday to Sunday 10am-6pm, dinner Friday & Saturday 02 4848 0200

Grapefoodwine  Wednesday to Sunday & Public Holidays 10am-5pm 02 4848 0165

Bushranger Hotel Lunch & dinner Wednesday to Sunday, restaurant dinner Saturday 02 4848 0071

The Collector General Store Cafe has lunches.

Shopping

The best place to shop in Collector is Lynwood Café (see above note regarding preserves). They also have other goodies like locally produced cakes, sweets, ceramics and gifts. Lake George and Madew wineries are close by, for cellar door tastings and the odd bottle or case to take home. The Gallery has quality items as well.

What to see

The drive up the Federal Highway to Collector takes you along the edge of Lake George (Weereewa). There's a turn-off to a scenic lookout at the top of the hill, just before the road descends to the lakeshore. It's a great view over the vast, 15,000 hectare lake. Until recently, it has looked more like a vast, 15,000 hectare sheep paddock, but recent rains have seen some water return. Locals have had to abandon the practice of taking short cuts across the lake-bed.

The town of Collector is tiny, with not much to see. There is a monument to Samuel Nelson just down the road from the Bushranger Hotel. The pub itself has a collection of bushranger memorabilia (including some old guns). As well as the name, the appearance of the Bushranger has changed since the days of the infamous hold-up. A verandah has been added to the original building. The grave of Constable Samuel Nelson is located at the back of the Church of England cemetery, with a memorial placed there by local historical societies.

Events

The Pumpkin Festival is the big event in Collector, as you've no doubt gathered by now.

Pumpkin Festival          First weekend in May Sunday 7

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Gundaroo

Gundaroo's main street is much less grand than Braidwood's, but equally historic. Somehow, it's easier to imagine it as a dusty road where Cobb & Co. pulled up at the coaching inn. The National Trust has defined the village as being of historic significance and it has been classified as an Urban Conservation Area. Building styles and materials range from slab huts and wattle and daub to stone and locally fired brick.

Gundaroo also has a town common bordering the village on the eastern side. The common is one of the few remaining functioning town commons in existence and provides an area for villagers to graze cattle.

There are rumours of a wild past in Gundaroo. Banjo Patterson penned a verse, The Gundaroo Bullock, which painted the town in a particularly criminal light:

…Far away by Grabben Cullen, where the Murrumbidgee flows,
There's a block of broken country-side where no one ever goes;
For the banks have gripped the squatters, and the free selectors too,
And their stock are always stolen by the men of Gundaroo…

In more recent times, a certain raciness has been attached to Gundaroo watering holes. The Gundaroo Colonial Inn, aka Matt Crowe's Wine Bar, has been in continuous operation since 1872. The adjective most commonly attached to it seems to be ‘notorious'. A favourite meeting place of locals, it featured heavily in the ‘Prickle Farmer' radio series from the late Mike Hayes. The wine bar is clearly still a drawcard for residents. As a local historian writes: “Recent years have seen an upsurge in interest in the Village from people who work in Canberra but want to enjoy a more rural lifestyle, keep a few animals, become part of a community, and enhance the turn-over of Crowes' Wine Bar.”

The much more upmarket Royal Hotel wasn't always so. For a long period in its life, as the ‘Gundaroo Pub', it catered for busloads of raucous visitors doing ‘Aussie drinking tours'. Locals tell of several dozen Japanese tourists enthusiastically singing “Crick go the shears boys, crick, crick, crick”. Special duty-free souvenir stores were set up for one night only, to lighten the wallets of the visitors while they were in a particularly mellow state of mind. (Maybe Banjo was right!)

Where to stay

In Gundaroo itself, Mallee Gum Cottage is the only accommodation on offer. This B&B offers ‘Australian country hospitality, country cuisine, native birdlife and heritage charm'. Mrs Davis' B&B is due to open around Christmas on the site of the old Mrs Davis' general store. Alternatively, the Do Duck Inn or Frankfield Guest House, both at Gunning, are within easy driving distance and offer period atmosphere, pleasant gardens and dinner/bed/breakfast packages.

Mallee Gum Cottage  B&B       02 6236 8366

Mrs Davis' B&B (due to open December) 02 6236 8141

Frankfield, Gunning       Guest House & Restaurant  02 4845 1200     www.frankfield.com.au

Do Duck In, Gunning  Guest House & Restaurant 02  4845 1207      www.doduckin.com

Where to eat

Of course, the first choice is Grazing at the Royal Hotel (see our article, page xx).The modern Australian food uses local country produce and is big-city quality. Forget your low GI diet and don't fail to try the beer-battered chips! For more casual eating, the Cork Street Café does award-winning pizzas in stables of the old police station. On a nice day you can sit outside. There's pub food available at the wine bar.

Grazing Lunch Friday to Sunday, dinner Thursday to Sunday 02 6236 8777

Cork Street Café          Friday to Sunday. 02 6236 8217

Gundaroo Wine Bar Open every day 02 6236 8155

What to do

Aside from eating and drinking, the main activity is drifting around town browsing through the gift shops (surprise, surprise) and looking at the many well-preserved historic buildings. The Cork Street Café has local pottery. Sally Paskins's Store has mainly garden-oriented gifts, but is particularly interesting for the building itself. This picturesque slab hut with its brick chimney was built in 1886.

How many towns have a historic skating rink? The building now masquerading as the Gundaroo Hall, was originally The Elite Skating Rink. It was built in 1890 to cater for the roller-skating craze of the era! The building is still used for meetings and social events.

If you're getting a taste for all this history, nearby Gunning is also worth a visit. The town has a number of attractive old buildings; a map is available from the Frankfield Guest House and Caxton Restaurant. Just 5km from town is a historic marker on the spot from which Hamilton Hume departed in 1824 for his famous overland trip to Port Phillip. If you're visiting Gunning on the last Sunday of the month, the village market is held at the Old Courthouse, from 8.30am.

Cork Street Café is at the end of a private lane that runs beside the Church. You can feel the history as you approach. The Café is actually in the stables of what was the Gundaroo Police Station. Part of the building is a heritage slab hut and the only concessions have been filling the gaps in the wooden floor and installing the pot bellied stoves that keep the place warm in winter. On sunny days, the long tables outside are a perfect place to enjoy what are really good pizzas, salads and cakes.

The new owners Bridget and Danny haven't messed with the formula that won the previous owners local Restaurant and Catering awards, and they too have just won best Pizza restaurant in the 2005 Southern Highlands awards. Many of their customers come from Canberra on weekends to experience the food here and then enjoy the charm of historic Cork Street.

On a Friday afternoon, after school, the local mums gather for coffee (and milkshakes for the kids). That the children are safe to run around and play unsupervised in the nearby backyards, is why young families come to these villages to live. Those of us travelling through will just have to be content with the village ambience and a good pizza.

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Murrumbateman

Heading back into wine country, you have a plethora of cellar door experiences awaiting you at Murrumbateman. The village itself is sprawling and not very interesting, although there are some historic buildings including the old Public School (c.1869) and Scots Church (c.1876). The first land grant in the area was made in the 1820s to Mary Davis, known around the district as Granny Davis. She is rumoured to have lived to the age of 113. Her grave, like those of other early settlers, is in the Gounyan Cemetery.

The scenery around Murrumbateman is attractive. Go for a drive up to Helm's winery and you dip through a lovely valley before climbing up to the winery entrance. The cellar door at Helm's is in a historic schoolhouse and the school bell is rung to signal the beginning of the vintage.

Before it became the centre of a wine-growing district, Murrumbateman was best known for its fine wool industry. The Merriman family, with their Merino sheep, took a leading role and Sir Walter Merriman was knighted for his services to the Australian Wool Industry in 1954.

Where to stay

Country Guesthouse Schonegg is a recent tourism award winner. You can choose the B&B option or have dinner included. There are country views, spa baths, fine food using local produce and a warm welcome from Evelyn and Richard. There are also some interesting bed and breakfast options in nearby Yass. Of course, Yass also has lots of hotels and motels, but they didn't seem to fit the spirit of our capital country villages experience. The Rose of Yass is the oldest surviving building in Yass; The Globe Inn is also a historic building.

Country Guesthouse Schonegg  Guesthouse  02 6227 0344 Website

Murrumbateman Country Inn    Hotel    02 6227 5802

The Rose of Yass         Historic Inn       02 6226 4323

Corona Grove      Bed And Breakfast    02 6226 4920 Website Kerrowgair          Bed and Breakfast     02 6226 4932 Website

The Globe Inn  Historic Bed & Breakfast 02 6226 3680 Website

Where to eat

Right in the Village, you'll find Barrique Café Restaurant. It's another converted inn, where you can sit in the garden under a 100-year-old walnut tree. You'll eat pleasant food here, but we didn't feel the quality quite lived up to the prices. Better value is Shaw's Vineyard, where an extraordinary Tuscanesque building houses a modern tasting room and spacious café with Italian-inspired food (and the ubiquitous wood-fired pizza oven). On warm days, the outdoor terrace would be a great choice for lunch with a view, the inside area is huge and a bit soul-less. Country Guesthouse Schonegg has a café open at weekends and does Friday candlelight dinners twice a month. The menus change seasonally and use local products including Galloway beef and Capital Olive Oil.

Barrique Café & Restaurant      Brunch/lunch Thursday to Sunday & holidays, dinner Thursday to Saturday                   02 6227 5600 

Country Guesthouse Schonegg  Lunch   weekends & holidays, dinner 1st & 3rd Fridays each month        02 6227 0344 Website

Murrumbateman Country Inn    Lunch and dinner daily  02 6227 5802             

Shaw Vineyard Lunch Thursday to Sunday, dinner Friday & Saturday  02 6227 5827  Website

Shopping

It's wine, wine and more wine! Many of the region's most highly regarded wineries are clustered around Murrumbateman. The access roads are generally well sign-posted and at most of the cellar doors you can pick up a Canberra region wine map. This also gives you opening hours for each winery; some are only open on weekends.

Shaw Vineyard sell a range of Italian ceramics from the famous pottery at Deruta. They also have traditional balsamic vinegars, sourced from Sorbara in the Italian region of Modena (the serious stuff, not what you pick up in the supermarket). Country Guesthouse Schonegg have a gallery and gifts, including their own jams and preserves which win awards in all the local shows.

What to do

If you need a break from wine tasting, go exploring the area around Murrumbateman and Yass. For a fascinating insight into early colonial life, visit Hamilton Hume's Cottage on the way to Yass. His grave is in the Yass General Cemetary (Anglican section). The Hume and Hovell Walking Track stretches from Yass to Albury. Walk in the footsteps of the explorers – you can do a short section if several hundred kilometres sounds a bit challenging.

Heading down the Hume Highway past Yass, you'll find the turn-off to the Burrinjuck Waters State Park. Lake Burrinjuck, we were told during our school days, holds five and a half times as much water as Sydney Harbour, although after the drought that multiple is probably much lower. You can picnic or go cruising on a riverboat. If you're looking for adventure, and you're not claustrophobic, head out to Carey's Caves at Wee Jasper. Guided tours are available.

Events

The popular rural field days are held each year at the Murrumbatemen Recreation Grounds. Displays feature rural suppliers, agricultural equipment, inventions as well as entertainment and refreshments. It's not a tourist event really, but you can see art and craft making, animals, farm and station activities and even take a scenic flight.

Murrumbateman Field Days October 15-16 2005

The Cool Climate Wine competition has some public sessions.

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Hall

Hall is the only one of these villages that is technically part of Canberra, although its history dates back well before Federation. The village was named after the first landholder in the district, Henry Hall, and was officially proclaimed in 1882. Hall Village has been declared a heritage precinct by the ACT (“not before time” muttered one of the local businesspeople, when we enquired). It retains a number of historic buildings, mostly from early this century, with their original features. You can inspect the Hall Village Well, the only remaining one-room school in the ACT, two fine churches and the travelling stock route. The Hall Markets, held monthly, are the largest in the Canberra area.

Where to stay

If you like the idea of being surrounded by spectacular gardens or if you want to bring your own horse (yes, they can accommodate horses and dogs by arrangement) the 4 ½ star Redbrow Garden and B&B is the perfect choice. If you want to be closer to the wineries, you can stay in one. At Surveyor's Hill bed and breakfast is provided in a 1930s cottage surrounded by vineyards and olive groves. At Last Stop, Ambledown Brook, you can stay in an old railway carriage.

Redbrow Garden   B&B    02 6226 8166 www.redbrowgarden.com.au

Surveyor's Hill  B&B    02 6230 2046  www.survhill.com.au

Last Stop Ambledown Brook: B&B 02 6230 2280  www.laststop.com.au

Where to eat

There are a couple of cafes in the village itself, but we suggest you head up the road to the Smokehouse Café at Poacher's Pantry (see our article on page xx). For a café with a view, try the Homestead Café at Gooromon Park. If you're thinking restaurant, rather than café, try the Green Herring, a little further down the Barton Highway at in the very touristy Gold Creek Village. Here you'll dine in a wooden slab hut that was built in 1860 and your hosts, Jane Herring and Graham Green make a point of sourcing local ingredients for their modern Australian food. Both of these are popular with Canberra foodies, so you'll need to book.

Green Herring Thursday to Saturday lunch, Tuesday to Saturday dinner 02 6230 2657

Homestead Café, Goorooman Park Brunch Sunday, lunch Friday to Sunday and public holidays 02 6230 2230

Poachers Pantry           Café Friday, Saturday & Sunday10am-5pm Tasting & sales daily 10am-5pm 02 6230 2487  kathy@poachers.com.au

Shopping

If you're in town on the first Sunday of the month, Hall Markets have a great country atmosphere. It's one of Australia's largest markets for hand-made & home grown goods, with 300-500 stalls spread across the Hall Showgrounds. Some of them simply make you gape and think “Who buys this stuff?”, but capital country growers are well represented, with both fresh produce and goodies like real fruit cordials, savoury sauces and preserves. You can even buy a live chicken or a goose!

For food shopping, Poachers Pantry is the place to stock up on smoked meats, poultry, game and vegetables. Loriendale Orchard (see below) has organically-grown fruit in season. And, of course, there are more wineries!

What to do

At Loriendale Orchard, you can see how these organic growers operate and buy fresh, organic fruit in season. Picking runs from near Christmas for cherries and berries, through to June for the late apples., The Blueberry Farm lets you pick your own blueberries in season, usually from just before Christmas until early February. To help recover from your foodie excesses, try the luxurious Geranium House Day Spa – sorry, it's ladies only.

Redbrow Garden is open Sundays and public holidays (except in June and July). Buy fresh garden produce and preserves in season; pick your own berries from September to December. The garden incorporates examples of enterprises suitable for small acreages, including B&B accommodation, free range egg production, horse paddocks, berries, feijoas, lavender, olives, aviaries and a meeting/function venue. So if you're contemplating a country lifestyle, bring your notebook.

Geranium House Day Spa  02 6230 9220

Loriendale Orchard      02 6230 2557  www.loriendale.com.au

Redbrow Garden          02 6226 8166  www.redbrowgarden.com.au

The Blueberry Farm   02 6230 2346

Events

The annual open day at Loriendale takes place in early April and has become quite a drawcard for people from Canberra and interstate. A staggering 400 homemade apple pies were consumed at last year's event. There's fresh-pressed apple juice from a 19th century style hand operated press, a tasting marquee where you can try some of the 165 varieties of apples, Devonshire teas, fruit and veggies on sale, music and the chance to stroll through the orchard.

Loriendale Open Day               April 2006 1-5pm        02 6230 2557

Hall Markets  First Sunday of each Month

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